The Trip - Part IX

You may recall, a long while back, we got to The Trip Part VIII, (our Christmas trip across Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and Malaysia). We were just boarding an overnight train to Hue.....

The Train was actually better that the last time we'd done one of these trips. It was squeezy and there was a cart with a plastic cooler serving hot soup with an assortment of stuff to add to the broth that we didn’t recognise, but it did brag a sit-down toilet and a couple of basins with running water – even if they were in the corridor.

Here’s how the journey was looking…..

After a restless night, we arrived in Hue, the old capital of Vietnam, at about 7am. We had another train to catch that night to Nah Trang so organised to store our luggage at the station, then went out and did exactly what the travel agent in Hanoi had told me not to: we got a guide and car right there. The station isn’t in town, so his suggestion to go to a hotel or travel agent seemed a bit hard. That and the fact that the guy who approached us was very convincing. He flashed me a map, pointed to some places, said of course they could take us somewhere for breakfast, showed us an immaculately clean and new seven-seater car – plenty of room for the wheelchair – all for US$40 for the day. Done!

It was only then that we realised this good looking young man with the perfect English was not actually coming with us. He introduced us to our guide and driver, Mr Foo, and assured us he spoke English. As it transpired, his English was about as extensive as my Vietnamese.

First stop… somewhere. It looked significant. Mr Foo said ‘Good,’ then pointed to his watch to indicate he’d pick us up in 2 hours. There were bus-loads of tourists so we knew we were on the beaten track – but after purchasing tickets, we discovered there were no signs in English – any where. It was old and crumbly and very impressive – whatever it was! (I had left the Vietnam guidebook in Australia by mistake – right now it seemed like a very big mistake. When we got back to Australia I discovered it was the Compound of the Emperor, built only 140 years ago….)

The old place - of some unknown significance.....

We then went to the Citadel – the site I was keen to see while we were here. It’s huge and impressive – and the kids (and Geoff) lost interest pretty quickly so we took the opportunity to frock the girls up for about $2 each, which was the price if you promised to take your own photos. George declined.

The girls as ancient Vietnamese royalty

To finish the Citadel, we thought we’d take a cyclio around the perimeter. Geoff has a personal objection to being peddled around by another human – fair enough – so the kids and I went. We negotiated a price – well above what Mr Foo had suggested – but I figured it’s only fair we pay the ‘don’t speak the local language tax’. After a pleasant trip – although the conversation about what the average monthly wage was in Australia should have rung alarm bells – I hand over a 500,000 note and expect 200,000 change. I get 50,000. It gets a little heated and we point out it’s not about the money, it’s the principle. I don’t think they give a fuck about the principle – they want money. They hand over another 50,000. Geoff is a big guy, not that he has any inclination to be physical, but I actually start to admire their tenacity! They hand over another 50,000. Geoff tells the guy in charge he needs to get his  drivers under control – he just stands there, stoic, as I’m sure he’s getting a slice of the action. Mr Foo arrives, there’s some discussion and he yells at them for our benefit. We cut our losses and head off.

Another pagoda and another attempt at ripping us off to buy incense – this time quickly thwarted by my new hero, Mr Foo. There’s a mix up in the communication (who’d have thought?!) and we find ourselves standing on the dirt road in the middle of nowhere for about an hour waiting for a very apologetic Mr Foo. We’re just so grateful he’s turned up – we have a train to catch!

The local market is a treat for everyone. The locals clearly don’t see too many tourists in wheelchairs.

A leisurely dinner then back to the station to find our luggage and board the next train – which by comparison to last nights, is pretty grubby…..